Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a form of Vitamin A – and potentially a game changer!
It’s a so-called retinoic acid ester, meaning that it’s directly related to retinoic acid – the active form of Vitamin A that effects change.
Other forms of retinoids (Vitamin A) have to be converted by our metabolic machinery to do something. No conversation, no effect. This applies to Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol and Retinaldehyde. That’s not the case with HPR. It binds directly to the retinoid receptors of the skin cells to work its skincare magic.
The big promise of HPR is that it’s similarly active as retinoic acid (no conversion needed) but without the irritation that comes with Retinoic Acid.
The metabolic conversion of Vitamin A:
retinyl palmitate --> retinol — > retinaldehyde --> all-trans-retinoic acid
The conversion process is not great – and efficacy is said to be lost with each step. While Retinyl Palmitate might be a great form of Vitamin A for those with highly sensitive, barrier impaired skins, it’s probably not going to change your life in a dramatic way.